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Turkey’s Black Sea Region: Anchovies, Cornmeal & Mountain Kitchens
One of the most distinct culinary stories in Turkey is found in the Black Sea region—stretching from Sinop to Artvin—where heavy rainfall, lush forests and a rugged coastline form the backdrop to kitchens whose rhythms differ markedly from those of Anatolia’s plains or the Mediterranean coast. In this region, the sea offers anchovies (hamsi) by the bucket, the mountains yield corn and wild greens, and butter and local cheese dominate in place of olive oil.
Anchovies are the regional superstar: featured in dozens of dishes such as hamsili pilav (rice cooked with anchovies), hamsi tava (fried anchovies) and hamsi köftesi (anchovy patties). The grain of choice for bread and porridge is corn (mısır), because the climate and soil favor maize over wheat in many places. Cornbread—and the cheese‑and‑butter dish mıhlama (also called kuymak)—are everyday comfort.
Vegetables such as collard greens (kara lahana) are turned into soups and rolls, while hazelnuts, tea (from Rize) and fruits deepen the regional palette.
In times when you sit down to a meal inspired by this region, expect bold flavors of the sea and earth combined: the brine of fish, the smoothness of melted cheese, the texture of cornmeal, the bite of mountain greens. It’s a cuisine that says: we live between waves and forests, we harvest from sea and slope, and our food is hearty, full of character and resistant to seasons. The broader lesson for lovers of Turkish cuisine is this: regional diversity matters. What you taste in Istanbul may echo, but it won’t replicate the food of the Black Sea coast. Recognizing that difference deepens both your flavor journey and your respect for culinary roots.